Difficulty
Scenic
Weather
David
Why I decided to walk this trail?
I’ve visited North India many times, and the Ladakh region has grown close to my heart. While I usually avoid the most famous treks, I couldn’t resist the Markha Valley — and I certainly don’t regret it. Most treks in Ladakh might seem repetitive, given the high mountain desert that dominates the landscape, but the Markha Valley felt different. It’s probably the most varied trek I’ve experienced in the region. Yes, you won’t be completely alone on the trail, but it’s still absolutely worth it.
I’m writing this years later, so I won’t go into exact details or a day-by-day itinerary. This post is meant more as a video document, a way to share the feeling of the trek, and maybe to tempt you into exploring it yourself someday.
If you’re considering this trek and don’t want to do it by yourself, I highly recommend reaching out to Sam—he’ll be more than happy to help. You can find more information on his website: https://ladakhtreks.com/.
13. July 2011 – 18. July 2011
Getting ready for the Trip
Basic info about Hemis NP & Markha valley trek
Hemis National Park
Hemis National Park, spanning over 4,400 square kilometers, is a vast and rugged sanctuary in Ladakh, known as the largest national park in India. Nestled in the trans-Himalayan region, its stark yet stunning landscape is characterized by deep valleys, high-altitude deserts, and snow-clad peaks. The park is home to some of the rarest wildlife on Earth, including the elusive snow leopard, which silently roams these icy heights. Spotting one is a privilege few experience, but trekkers on the Chadar Trek often come across its ghostly presence—paw prints pressed into the frozen river or the distant echo of movement on the cliffs.
Beyond its wildlife, Hemis National Park is also a cultural treasure. Scattered within its borders are ancient Buddhist monasteries, including the famous Hemis Monastery, a spiritual and historical center of Ladakh. The park is inhabited by Ladakhi and Zanskari communities, whose traditional lifestyles remain deeply connected to the land. However, as climate change and development reshape the region, both its fragile ecosystem and centuries-old way of life face an uncertain future. Despite these challenges, Hemis remains a sanctuary where nature and culture coexist in breathtaking harmony.
Markha Valley trek
The Markha Valley trek is one of the most popular routes in Ladakh, known for combining stark Himalayan desert scenery with small green villages that feel like hidden oases. Trekkers follow trails that wind past ancient monasteries, mani walls carved with Buddhist prayers, and narrow gorges where the path sometimes squeezes between sheer cliffs. High mountain passes such as Kongmaru La open up breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks, including Kang Yatse, and give a sense of just how vast and remote this region is.
What makes the trek memorable is not only the landscapes but also the culture along the way. Villages scattered through the valley welcome visitors with traditional Ladakhi hospitality, and many trekkers stay in homestays where they can share a simple meal and glimpse local life. The Markha Valley trek offers a rare balance: days filled with challenging but rewarding walking in rugged terrain, and evenings spent in places where life has hardly changed for generations. It’s a journey that blends adventure with cultural immersion in a setting that feels timeless.
How to get to starting point Leh
By Air (The Only Reliable Option in Winter)
The only feasible way to reach Leh in winter is by flight.
- Airport: Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport (IXL), Leh
- Flights: Direct and connecting flights operate from:
- Delhi (DEL) – Most frequent and reliable.
- Mumbai (BOM)
- Srinagar (SXR)
- Chandigarh (IXC)
- Airlines Operating: IndiGo, GoFirst (when operational), Vistara, Air India.
Accommodation
During main season, Leh sees a lot of tourists, and plentiful of accommodation options. From cheap guesthouses to luxury hotels. I personally usually pick hotel after I land in Leh, but if you prefer to book it in advance, I can recommend
- Oriental Guest House – Just below Shanti Stupa, a favorite hotel run by a local family for many years.
ON THE TREK
You will sleep in guesthouses, so take your sleeping bag with you. You can also camp on the trek, I found it unnecessary, but it is your choice (if you like your privacy, or don’t like to mend in the culture too much – in guesthouse you ofter spend a lot of time with the family)
Weather
🌤️ Best Time to Visit: June to August
This is the main trekking season, when passes are open and villages are accessible. Expect:
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Daytime temperatures around 20–25°C (68–77°F), nights 5–10°C (41–50°F)
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Clear skies and strong sun — UV protection is essential
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Rivers swollen with snowmelt, making some crossings more challenging
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Lively villages and fully operating homestays
🍂 Autumn: September to November
Fewer crowds and crisp air make this a rewarding time for trekking. Expect:
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Daytime temps 10–15°C (50–59°F), nights below freezing
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Excellent visibility and colorful autumn landscapes
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Lower river levels, making crossings easier
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Many homestays still open in September–early October; late October sees snow returning
❄️ Winter: December to February
Most of the trail is closed due to snow and harsh conditions. Expect:
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Daytime highs rarely above 5°C (41°F), nights well below –15°C (5°F)
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High passes and many villages inaccessible
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Only specialized expeditions attempt winter trekking (e.g., Chadar trek)
🌱 Spring: March to May
Early spring is still off-season, with limited accessibility. Expect:
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Daytime temps 10–15°C (50–59°F) in lower valleys; snow persists at higher altitudes
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Late May sees improving conditions, clearer skies, and more stable weather
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Early spring requires preparation for snow, cold nights, and limited accommodation
Water & Food
Food
In case you prefer guesthouse stay, you can take almost nothing and ask your host to pack some lunch along with you (breakfast, and usually also dinner, is provided). Of course that mean you will get chapati (if you are happy, it will be stuffed with marmalade) and maybe some cheese. And in main season, there are ‚Tea tents‘ built from parachutes, where you can get refreshment. Of course it is always advisable to take some extra dehydrated food with you, just in case.
Water
You can get water from guesthouses, and in some of them it will be filtered water. But you should have own filter to make sure your trip will be safe. If water is taken from stream, always purify it – there is a lot of animals around, and they don’t hesitate to shit into the water 😉
