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David

Why I decided to be digital nomad in Dwell?

It all began with COVID-19. After months of endless home office days, I needed a change of scene—desperately. Like for many, the pandemic turned the unthinkable into the everyday: remote work. And for me, it opened the door to something I hadn’t quite planned—life as a digital nomad.

Why the Azores? I had always been drawn to the idea of these faraway islands in the Atlantic, often called the “islands of eternal spring.” I’d heard whispers of their wild beauty—like Madeira, but quieter, greener, more remote. Then I stumbled upon a coworking space that caught my eye: Dwell. It looked cozy, well-priced, and just right.

From the moment I arrived, everything clicked. Charles and Anna, the owners of Dwell, welcomed me not just as a guest, but like an old friend. Their mix of warmth and professionalism created a place that felt like both home and haven.

Even when I caught COVID during my stay, nothing really changed. I had to extend my time on the island, but honestly? I didn’t mind. In a strange way, it felt like the island wanted me to stay a little longer.

To Charles and Anna—thank you again for making the Azores not just a place I visited, but a place I’ll always remember.

8. January 2022 – 29. January 2022

Keep the Stories Brewing

If this guide saved you from packing flip-flops for a mountain trek or helped you find Wi-Fi strong enough to send a Zoom call from the jungle, consider fueling my next adventure (or at least my next coffee) ☕. And no pressure here — maybe fewer typos next time.

Getting ready

Basic info about Azores

How to get to Dwell coworking

Electricity at Azores and Dwell: What Digital Nomads Need to Know

Weather

Water & Food

You’ll eat (and drink) very well in São Miguel — the island is known for its clean environment, locally grown food, and high standards of hygiene.

💧 Tap Water
The tap water on São Miguel is safe to drink. It’s sourced from natural springs or underground aquifers and meets EU water quality standards. That said, some travelers notice a slight mineral taste (due to volcanic geology), so if you’re sensitive to flavors, consider filtered or bottled water.

🥘 Food Safety
Food hygiene is excellent in restaurants, cafés, and markets. São Miguel is famous for:

  • Fresh seafood — tuna, limpets, and octopus are staples

  • Cozido das Furnas — a unique stew slow-cooked underground using volcanic heat

  • Local cheeses and dairy — the island’s lush pastures produce some of Portugal’s best

  • Exotic fruits — pineapples, passionfruit, and bananas thrive here

Street food is not a big thing here, but bakeries and snack bars (called snack-bars) offer fresh pastries and sandwiches with clean preparation.

Supermarket close to Dwell: Continente in close by Capelas city

🍽️ Dietary Notes
Vegetarians and vegans will find options in larger towns like Ponta Delgada, though rural areas are more traditional (meat and fish-heavy). Always ask staff — people are kind and accommodating, even if English isn’t perfect.

😷 Stomach Issues?
Rare. Unless you’re sensitive to richer dairy or haven’t adapted to seafood-heavy diets, food-related illnesses are uncommon. Just the usual travel advice: wash fruit if you buy it fresh, and don’t overdo it with unfamiliar dishes on day one.

Map

What to SEE or DO around

Dwell coworking & coliving

For the first time in my life, I tried working as a digital nomad—just for three weeks, but still. Dwell Azores offered exactly what I was hoping for: affordable accommodation combined with a proper workspace, featuring the most amazing office and terrace perched on a cliff, just meters above the ocean. The cliff stood strong against the constant pounding of Atlantic waves, a work setting unlike anything I could ever experience back home.

For current info on availability, pricing, and fresh photos, check out the website https://dwellazores.com/. My photos are from 2021, so they might be pretty out of date.

I experienced quite a lot here.

  • my first COVID
  • great hospitality provided by owners – Charles & Ania. They are also source of endless info about island
  • free breakfast (ok, included in very good price 🙂 )
  • all dwellers evening parties usually once a week
  • meeting amazing people (e.g. writer of book ‚Couchsurfing in Iran‘ – Stephan Orth, who was writing new book here)
  • yoga lessons provided by volunteers in Dwell
  • many many more …

Trek: Sete Cidades: PR03SMI, PR04SMI

Difficulty: Medium,  Ascend: 732 m, Descend: 732 m, Duration: 8h, Distance: 23 km

The very first weekend of my stay on the island of São Miguel, I set out on a trek that no one should miss — one of the most iconic experiences the Azores have to offer. On the map, I found two official routes that define the journey: PR03SMI and PR04SMI. Together, they form a circular trail around the crater lakes of Sete Cidades: Lagoa Azul, Lagoa Verde, Lagoa de Santiago, and Lagoa Rasa.

The views constantly shift between dramatic volcanic ridgelines, lush greenery, and calm reflective waters. This is a full-day adventure, so be sure to bring plenty of water, snacks, and prepare for changing weather. Whether you’re an avid hiker or just want to experience the magic of this surreal landscape, this trek will leave a lasting impression.

As for navigation, don’t expect any problems here. The route is straightforward and well-marked, making it easy to follow without a map or GPS (ok, better take it anyway). Almost the entire trail offers stunning views — whether of the crater lakes, lush green pastures, or the endless Atlantic Ocean in the distance.

#LAGO AZUL & VERDE

Although they are part of the same body of water, the Blue Lake (Lagoa Azul) and the Green Lake (Lagoa Verde) appear to be different colors when viewed from above. This is due to differences in depth, vegetation, and how the surrounding landscape reflects light into each part of the lake. Lagoa Verde is closer to the forested slopes, so it often looks green, while Lagoa Azul reflects more open sky, giving it a blue hue. This unique optical effect is one of the reasons Sete Cidades is among the most photographed places in the Azores.

As I climb toward the ridge, a group of off-road motorcyclists zoom past me at full speed. They don’t bother slowing down — rocks and dirt fly straight into my face. And the irony? I actually like off-road riding. To be fair, this place is perfect for training: frequent rain has carved deep ruts into the trails, making it a true technical playground.

Even along the ridge, water is plentiful. There are large troughs and cattle watering stations. I didn’t bring a filter, but I still have enough water, so I’m not taking any chances. Around the halfway point of the trail, I come across what looks like a barbecue spot. Thanks to the constant humidity, the grill racks are completely overgrown with moss — the kind of thing you’d normally hang above a campfire back home. I have no idea if people actually use it in the summer, but the scene is magical.

At the end of trail PR04SMI, I stumble upon something straight out of a Harry Potter movie set: a stone aqueduct swallowed by green vegetation, known as the Wall of the Nine Windows. This long stone wall with nine arches was built in the 19th century to channel water from the highlands (like Lagoa do Canário) down toward Ponta Delgada and the farmlands below.

I want to connect with trail PR03SMI next, but unfortunately, it means walking a stretch of asphalt road. Luckily, there’s hardly any traffic, so I pick up the pace. Soon, I reach the bizarre and imposing structure of Monte Palace. Once a luxurious five-star hotel perched at the Vista do Rei viewpoint, with breathtaking views of the Sete Cidades lakes, it opened in 1989 — and went bankrupt just 18 months later. After decades of abandonment, it’s now a graffiti-covered ruin, slowly being reclaimed by nature. These days, it’s a magnet for urban explorers who climb to the roof for what’s said to be one of the most stunning views on São Miguel. This time, though, I didn’t check it out for myself.

Pico das Eguas

Difficulty: Easy,  Ascend: 150 m, Descend: 150 m, Duration: 1-2h, Distance: 4-5km

Hidden away in the highlands above Sete Cidades lies Pico das Éguas, the highest point of the Serra Devassa. At 873 meters it isn’t exactly Everest, but it feels wild and untamed, surrounded by a patchwork of volcanic craters and little lakes that seem to appear out of nowhere. The name means “Peak of the Mares,” and just like its curious title, the place has its own personality — part rugged volcanic cone, part green Azorean fairytale.

Unfortunatelly for me, the day I visited this place was all about fog and rain, not that it is unusual for Azores. It was worth it anyway. After few days I visited the place again, and I think difference is visible in photo gallery below 😉

What makes this summit special is not just the altitude, but the view. From the ridge you can spot several of São Miguel’s lesser-known lagoons: Rasa, Carvão, Peixe, and of course the twin “Éguas” lakes nestled below. The trails wind through forests of Japanese cedar and carpets of moss before suddenly opening into wide, treeless slopes where the wind never rests. It’s part of a protected landscape, so if you look closely you’ll also find rare Azorean plants clinging to the volcanic soil. The hike itself is short and not too demanding, but it packs in everything that makes the island feel magical — solitude, ever-changing weather, and those sweeping crater views that remind you you’re standing on an active volcanic island in the middle of the Atlantic.

Gorreana tea plantation

Difficulty: Easy,  Ascend: 170 m, Descend: 170 m, Duration: 1.5 h, Distance: 3.5 km

Tucked away on the north coast of São Miguel, the Gorreana tea plantation has been running since 1883—making it the oldest surviving tea estate in Europe. Its origins are a mix of luck and resilience: when a blight wiped out the island’s once-profitable orange groves, locals turned to tea as a replacement crop. Seeds were brought over from Brazil, and two Chinese tea masters were invited to teach the craft of cultivation and processing. Over five generations, the same family has kept the tradition alive, weathering economic downturns, emigration waves, and the lure of cheaper global competition. Even today, the factory still runs some of its original 19th-century British machines, which now creak and clatter more like museum pieces than industrial equipment.

As usual, after finishing work, I head out to explore the hidden treasures of São Miguel. This time, my curiosity leads me to the Gorreana tea plantation. I’m a regular tea drinker—not the bagged kind from Dilmah, but real tea with character. I’ve already visited plantations in India, from the misty slopes of Darjeeling to the remote hills of Sikkim, yet finding one here in Europe feels like something truly rare.

What surprises me most is how open and relaxed the place feels. There’s no entrance fee, no strict path to follow—I can simply wander through the fields at my own pace. Nobody seems bothered by my presence, which makes the experience even more authentic. And honestly, that’s just perfect.

#TEA WITHOUT CHEMICALS

What makes Gorreana especially fascinating is how little it has had to modernize. The volcanic soil and damp Atlantic air naturally repel many of the pests that plague other tea-growing regions, so the plantation can proudly produce its tea without herbicides or pesticides. Visitors can wander the green terraces, sip complimentary cups of black or green tea, and then stroll straight onto hiking trails that weave between the fields. There’s something surreal about drinking a steaming cup on the terrace while gazing over endless rows of emerald bushes, with the Atlantic flashing in the distance—a reminder that sometimes the most authentic experiences come not from grand tourist attractions, but from places where tradition simply carried on.

This kind of teas are produces in Gorreana factory:

  • Black teas

    • Orange Pekoe

    • Broken Leaf

    • Pekoe

    • Moinha (a stronger, more rustic cut)

  • Green teas

    • Hysson (light and slightly sweet)

    • Encosta de Bruma

    • Pérola (rolled pearl-style leaves)

There is a shop at the entrance to the plantation, where you can buy tea for you or as a gift from your journey 😉

Lagoa do Fogo

Difficulty: Easy,  Ascend: 500 m, Descend: 500 m, Duration: 2-3h, Distance: 5km

As usual, after work I set on walk to Lagoa do Fogo. 

Lagoa do Fogo feels like stepping into another world. Hidden high in the volcanic mountains of São Miguel, this “Lake of Fire” isn’t just a dramatic name—it’s a reminder of the island’s fiery origins. The crater walls rise steep and green around the lake, often wrapped in drifting clouds that make the whole place look mysterious and untouched. Unlike the more easily accessible Sete Cidades, Lagoa do Fogo is wilder, quieter, and protected—no big villages on its shores, just raw nature. Reaching it often means a winding drive followed by a short hike, but the reward is standing on the rim and seeing the turquoise water far below, a scene that changes with the light and weather. Some days it glitters under the sun, other times it feels like a moody mirror of the sky.

Today feels like the most beautiful day, and I say that purely from the heart. We move forward slowly, not just because the terrain is tough, but because we’re savoring every moment. Each step brings a new surprise—a magnificent cave appears ahead, its mouth opening wide, stretching tens, maybe hundreds, of meters along the rocky cliffside. Inside one of them, we find a natural watering hole, the water flowing down from a stalactite into a small, clear pool. Without hesitation, we drink, grateful for it. With the sun beating down and less water left in our packs, this refreshing gift is exactly what we need. I’m not sure if the photos can capture the sheer beauty we’re witnessing, but in a way, we all agree—this experience is beyond words.

#HIGHEST LAKE on island

Lagoa do Fogo is the highest lake on São Miguel, sitting at about 575 m above sea level inside a volcanic crater formed during an eruption in 1563. It’s around 2 km long, up to 30 m deep, and is part of a protected nature reserve, which means no construction or swimming is allowed to preserve its fragile ecosystem. Access is usually by hiking trails or viewpoints along the mountain road, and the weather can change quickly

After descending to the lake, I realized that most of the trails marked with a dashed line on the map were actually underwater. I managed to push through a few sections, but in the end, I had no choice but to turn back to the parking lot and try one of the paths running along the rim of the old crater.

Of course, it was raining—and eventually the fog rolled in as well. A magical walk, no sarcasm intended!

Lagoa de Furnas

Difficulty: Easy,  Ascend: 240 m, Descend: 240 m, Duration: 2.5 h, Distance: 8 km

Lagoa de Furnas feels different from the other crater lakes on São Miguel. While Sete Cidades and Lagoa do Fogo impress with their remoteness and dramatic views, Furnas has a more “lived-in” character. The lake sits in a wide volcanic valley, with hot springs bubbling up along its shores. On one side you’ll find steaming vents and traditional cooking pits where locals prepare cozido das Furnas—a hearty stew buried in the hot ground and slowly cooked by geothermal heat. Across the water rises the striking white Chapel of Nossa Senhora das Vitórias, standing alone with a backdrop of green hills.

PRC06SMI – Circular walk around the lake

The PRC06SMI trail is a relaxed circular walk around Lagoa de Furnas, perfect if you want to experience the lake from every angle. The path is mostly flat, weaving through forested sections, open meadows, and stretches right along the shore. It’s an easy route—about 8 km in total—that lets you take in the changing moods of the lake, from misty mornings to bright afternoons. Along the way you pass fumaroles, small streams, and quiet picnic spots. The highlight for many is reaching the chapel on the far side, its reflection often shimmering in the water. It’s not a strenuous hike, but more of a meditative loop—ideal if you want to slow down and just enjoy the rhythm of the landscape.

#ARAUCARIA HETEROPHYLLA

There’s a giant Araucaria heterophylla by the southern margin of Lagoa das Furnas that draws a lot of attention. It’s a centennial tree — estimated at 150-200 years old — with a height around 50 meters and a trunk diameter of nearly 2 meters. Because of its size and age, it was officially classified as of Public Interest (Interesse Público) by regional authorities.

As for whether it’s the tallest Araucaria in Europe — that is often claimed. Some sources say it is the largest Araucaria (Norfolk Island Pine) in Europe.

Waterfall: Salto do Prego

Difficulty:Easy,  Ascend: 250 m, Descend: 250m, Duration: 2h, Distance: 4 km

The walk to Salto do Prego starts from the small village of Faial da Terra, where you can leave your car at the local parking area. From there, the trail (PRC09SMI) leads gently uphill along a shaded path following a stream. The hike is not long—about 4 km round trip—but it feels like stepping into a jungle, with dense ferns, mossy rocks, and the sound of water accompanying you most of the way. After roughly an hour, you reach the highlight: Salto do Prego, a beautiful waterfall plunging into a clear pool, perfect for cooling off your feet after the walk. On the way back, you can either retrace your steps or extend the loop through the abandoned village of Sanguinho, where old stone houses are slowly being restored, adding a touch of history to the lush natural scenery.

What surprises many visitors is that this valley was also used for banana plantations—yes, bananas grow on São Miguel thanks to the mild, humid climate. Walking through Sanguinho you can spot terraces and traces of old cultivation, a reminder that this wasn’t just a village, but a working landscape. The contrast of tropical crops, old stone houses, and wild greenery makes it feel like a place frozen in time. Some restored houses are now used for rural tourism and workshops, so it’s worth lingering a bit before heading down to Faial da Terra.

#SANGUINHO village – banana, really?

The village of Sanguinho sits just above Faial da Terra and was once home to a small farming community. In the 20th century it was gradually abandoned, as life in such a remote spot was tough and families moved closer to town. For years the houses were left to crumble, hidden by vegetation, but recently locals and volunteers have been working to restore them. Today you’ll see a mix of ruins, half-collapsed stone walls, and lovingly rebuilt cottages with traditional Azorean charm. The name Sanguinho comes from a native plant (Frangula azorica) that grows in the area.

Poca do Beija - hot springs

For actual information about this hot spring, see https://pocadadonabeija.com/en/info/

Poça da Dona Beija in Furnas is one of those places where you immediately feel the island’s volcanic soul. Set in a lush garden with tropical plants, wooden walkways, and soft lighting at night, the pools invite you to slow down and just soak. It’s smaller and more intimate than the large Terra Nostra park, and that’s exactly the charm: instead of wandering through a huge botanical garden, you simply slip into warm water and let the steam rise around you while the cool evening air brushes your face. Locals come here as much as visitors, which keeps the atmosphere friendly and relaxed.

The hot spring and its water

The pools are fed by a geothermal spring with naturally hot, iron-rich water. The reddish tint you’ll notice on the rocks and even on your swimsuit after a long soak comes from dissolved iron and other minerals carried straight from deep underground. Besides iron, the water contains traces of calcium, magnesium, and bicarbonates—elements often associated with relaxing muscles and easing joint pain. The constant flow keeps the water fresh and at a comfortable temperature of around 39–40°C, so you can stay in for as long as you like without it ever feeling stagnant.

#DONA BEIJA – local legend

Bathing in Furnas’ thermal springs isn’t a new trend; people here have been using the hot waters for centuries, long before tourism arrived. In fact, the area where Poça da Dona Beija now stands was once just a steaming creek used by locals for bathing and washing. Over time, it was carefully developed into a series of pools while keeping the natural character intact. The name “Dona Beija” itself is tied to a local legend about a woman whose beauty was said to come from these very waters. Whether or not the story is true, the place carries that sense of magic—where geology, folklore, and everyday life blend into a uniquely Azorean experience.

Others

Few more places I visited, but not really enough to write full section about it:

Praia do Areal de Santa Bárbara

Out of main season, this is absolutely empty black sand beach. Each time i went around, i stopped just to stay for a while at a coast. In season, surf lessons are provided by https://www.santabarbarasurfschoolazores.com/

PR01SMI – short walk, east of Dwell

Short walk from Fenais da Luz to Calhetas. Very strange hole (made from sandstone I believe), I found the name on google maps: Buraco de São Pedro. Owners of Dwell told me it is possible to swim inside of this hole somehow, but in this season, ocean was quite rough …

Zona Balnear dos Poços

Simple outdoor swimming pool.

UNSEEN!

Terra Nostra Park in Furnas

the Azores’ most famous hot springs site : https://www.parqueterranostra.com/en/

Ponta da Ferraria

hot spring flowing directly to ocean. You must find right time to get in … https://pontadaferraria.com/