Difficulty
Scenic
Weather
Jan, Mira & David
Why I decided to walk this trail?
Eight years ago, I failed this trek. Since then, doubts about my right knee had lingered, creeping into my mind every time I thought about setting out again. This time, they had to go.
I usually describe treks in meticulous detail, but Selvaggio Blu is different. This isn’t just a trek—it’s one big adventure, and I want it to stay that way, at least for those who truly care about it. To preserve its essence, there must be space for fear, uncertainty, and the battle with your own demons.
Yes, the route is mapped on GPS, and I’ll list the necessary equipment. But along the way, you’ll face ropes dangling over voids, narrow ledges perched above sheer drops, and endless searches for the right path. The cliffs will test your nerve, the jagged rocks will shred your shoes, and your phone’s signal will mock you by disappearing when you need it most.
Simply put—there’s a lot to look forward to!
P.S. GPS track displayed on map below is good for navigating, but height profile and length might not be accurate. If your navigation says second day is only 2:30h of walking, forget it, bite your lips and go!
23. March 2025 – 27. March 2025
Getting ready for the Trip
Basic info about Selvaggio Blu trek
The Selvaggio Blu trek is one of the most challenging and stunning hiking routes in Sardinia, Italy, stretching for 40-50 km along the rugged eastern coastline of the Gulf of Orosei. The trek typically takes 4-7 days to complete, depending on the route chosen and the hiker’s experience. Known for its difficult terrain, it requires technical skills such as climbing and rappelling. Hikers will navigate unmarked paths, climb steep cliffs, and occasionally traverse exposed sections with ropes. Accommodations along the way are minimal, with most hikers either bivouacking or sleeping in caves, making it essential to carry all necessary gear and supplies. The best time to embark on the Selvaggio Blu is in the spring (April-May) or autumn (September-October), avoiding the intense summer heat.
The trek was created in 1987 by Gian Piero Manca, a local mountain guide and explorer, who sought to bring attention to the pristine beauty of Sardinia’s wild coastline. Initially conceived as a way to connect various hidden coastal areas, Manca’s idea evolved into the Selvaggio Blu as a means of showcasing the raw, untamed beauty of Sardinia’s landscape while providing a challenging adventure for outdoor enthusiasts. The route is not only a test of endurance but also an opportunity to experience the natural history and unique flora and fauna of the island.
For those considering the trek, it’s important to be aware of the technical nature of the journey. While the scenery is breathtaking—featuring towering cliffs, hidden beaches, and crystal-clear waters—the path is not for the faint of heart. It’s recommended to undertake the Selvaggio Blu with a guide unless you have significant experience in mountain trekking and climbing. Proper preparation is essential, and hikers should be ready for a physically demanding journey through some of Sardinia’s most remote and awe-inspiring landscapes.
So far for the official route description—but in reality, there are several ways to conquer Selvaggio Blu.
- Solo, Fully Self-Sufficient
Pack everything you need for 4–5 days (food, water, gear) and trek with a heavy backpack. This is one of the toughest approaches, as water sources along the route are unreliable. Sometimes, you can collect water in caves, but that’s only a possibility in spring—and even then, it’s far from guaranteed. - Without a Guide, but with Local Support
Carry supplies for 1–2 days and arrange for locals to deliver food, water, and ropes at accessible points along the route. Deposits along the trail are no longer allowed, so all resupplies must be brought in person. This was our choice. - With a Mountain Guide
A guide—or the company hiring them—handles everything: safety, navigation, and daily food deliveries so you can trek with just a light pack. While this makes the trek significantly easier, it also takes away some of the adventure—and prices start at €1,000 per person for four days. - The Extreme Option: Trail Running in One Day
Yes, there are runners who tackle the entire route in a single push. The current record? Nicola Bassi, 8h 10min (2016). If you’re curious about the details, check out: https://fastestknowntime.com/fkt/nicola-bassi-selvaggio-blu-sardinia-italy-2016-10-08.
How to get to starting point Pedra Longa or Santa Maria Navaresse
If you’re coming from outside Sardinia, the closest major transport hubs are Olbia, Cagliari, and Alghero, which have airports and ferry ports. You can either fly to Sardinia and rent a car or bring your car by ferry from mainland Italy. The main starting points for the Selvaggio Blu trek are Pedra Longa and Santa Maria Navarrese, both located on the east coast near the town of Baunei.
Option 1: Arriving by Ferry with Your Car
If you’re driving your own vehicle, ferries operate from mainland Italy to Sardinia. The closest ferry port to the Selvaggio Blu starting points is Arbatax, just 15-20 minutes by car from both Pedra Longa and Santa Maria Navarrese. Alternatively, depends on where from you drive a car at mainland, you can use ferry from Livorno to Olbia. Check the https://www.directferries.com/ website and configure search as you need. Good option is to get a night ferry and sleep in cabin.
- From Civitavecchia (Rome’s port) – ~9h (overnight option available)
- From Livorno – ~10h (overnight option available)
If you land at Olbia, Cagliari, or Porto Torres, expect a longer drive:
- Olbia → Pedra Longa/Santa Maria Navarrese: 2.5-3h (SS131 + SS125)
- Cagliari → Pedra Longa/Santa Maria Navarrese: 3.5-4h (SS125)
- Porto Torres → Pedra Longa/Santa Maria Navarrese: 4.5h (SS131 + SS125)
Arbatax is the best ferry port choice, as it’s the closest to the trek. But check also Livorno to Olbia route
Option 2: Arriving by Plane and Renting a Car
- Fly into Olbia (OLB) – Best airport choice (2.5-3h drive)
- Fly into Cagliari (CAG) – Second-best option (3.5-4h drive)
- Fly into Alghero (AHO) – Longest drive (4.5h)
Car Rental: Available at all airports and ferry ports. Renting a 4×4 is unnecessary, but a high-clearance vehicle can be helpful for rougher roads.
Final Tips
- Pedra Longa is the more common starting point, but Santa Maria Navarrese offers easier access and amenities.
- If coming by ferry with a car, Arbatax is the best entry port, cutting down travel time.
- If flying, Olbia is the closest major airport with rental car options.
- Public transport is very limited, so having your own vehicle is highly recommended.
Accomodation
Accommodation Before and After the Trek
We stayed at The Lemon House Guesthouse, a cozy and welcoming spot where we enjoyed the hospitality of its owner, Richard Felderer. He’s an incredible person, always ready to help with just about any outdoor activity on the island. If you need advice, gear tips, or just a good conversation, he’s the one to talk to.
Accommodation During the Trek
Camping or bivouacking is only allowed at designated campsites—gone are the days when you could pitch a tent anywhere along the trail. Before setting off, check the Selvaggio Blu section of Turismo Baunei, where you’ll find all the necessary documents, including GPS coordinates for campsites.
A permit is required, costing €30 per person per trip. For more details or to arrange your permit, send an email to selvaggioblu@turismobaunei.eu.
Weather
Spring (March to May)
- Temperature: Spring sees moderate temperatures, ranging from 10°C to 20°C (50°F to 68°F). Early spring can still be chilly, especially in the higher altitudes, but by late spring, it’s usually quite pleasant for trekking.
- Conditions: The weather can be mixed, with occasional rain showers, especially in March and April. By May, the weather tends to be more stable, though brief showers or overcast skies can still occur. The landscape is lush, with wildflowers blooming, making it a beautiful time for hiking.
- What to expect: Due to the varying weather, it’s important to be prepared for both sun and rain. The cooler temperatures can also make the rugged trails more manageable, but the humidity near the coast can increase as the season progresses.
Autumn (September to November)
- Temperature: Autumn is another great time to hike the Selvaggio Blu. Temperatures are similar to spring, generally ranging from 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F) in September and dropping to around 10°C to 15°C (50°F to 59°F) in November.
- Conditions: Early autumn (September and October) often brings mild, stable weather with clear skies, perfect for hiking. However, November can bring more frequent rainfall and cooler conditions, especially in the higher altitudes.
- What to expect: The fall foliage adds to the beauty of the landscape, with the trails being less crowded than in the summer. But rainstorms can be more frequent as the season progresses, so you’ll need to be prepared for wet conditions.
Weather Considerations
- Wind: Being a coastal route, wind can be an issue on some sections of the Selvaggio Blu, especially along cliff edges. Wind can pick up, particularly in autumn, making some days feel colder than the air temperature suggests.
- Rain: Both spring and autumn can experience unpredictable rain showers, especially in the mountains. The trail may become slippery, especially after a storm.
Best Websites for Weather Forecasts for Selvaggio Blu
- Meteo Sardegna (Sardinia Weather)
This website provides specific weather forecasts for Sardinia, including mountain and coastal areas like Baunei, which is where the Selvaggio Blu trail is located.
https://www.meteosardegna.it - Meteo Sardegna (Windy)
This website provides high-resolution weather forecasts, including wind, temperature, and precipitation data for Sardinia. You can check out the forecast for specific regions like Baunei.
https://www.windy.com
Water & Food
Food
If you opt for a variant with local support, you’ll need to arrange all your food in advance. A local contact can deliver it to a pre-agreed location along the route, making things a bit easier.
For other approaches—whether you’re going with a mountain guide, trekking solo, or trail running—you’re entirely self-sufficient. There are no food resupply points along the trek, so plan accordingly.
The only exception is one possible detour: when passing Cala Goloritzé, you can hike up to Su Porteddu Café. However, check in advance if it’s open—it’s a 3 km detour, takes about 1.5 hours one way, and climbs 350 meters from the main trail. Not exactly a quick snack stop, but if it works out, it’s a welcome break.
Water
Just like food, water requires careful planning. During spring, you might find water in some caves, but it’s not a reliable source. Don’t count on it—carry enough to stay hydrated between known water points (the same ones as for food probably).
Video
Credits for filming & video editing to Jan Dohnal
Itinerary
Day 1: Pedra longa - camping below Monte Ginnirco
Difficulty: Medium, Ascend: 873 m, Descend: 175 m, Duration: 3h, Distance: 6 km
Four hours after lunch, we step out of the car, ready to embark on the epic Selvaggio Blu trek. The afternoon sun bathes the landscape in golden light, casting long shadows over the rugged cliffs ahead. This is our path for the next few days—a journey along the very edge of Sardinia’s wild coastline.
At first, the trail is easy, a gentle walk along the shore with the scent of the sea in the air. But soon, the terrain shifts. The path narrows, the incline steepens, and the real challenge begins. Step by step, we push higher, winding our way up toward our first campsite beneath Monte Ginnirco. The reward? A breathtaking view as the sun sinks toward the horizon, painting the cliffs in shades of amber and crimson. The adventure is just beginning.
Looking over our shoulders, it all starts to sink in—what this trek is truly about. The endless expanse of the sea stretching to the horizon, the unforgiving ascents and knee-shaking descents, the jagged rocks underfoot, and the constant search for the right path, often lost in the tangled embrace of wild Mediterranean vegetation. And yet, this is just the beginning. Ahead lies the unknown, the challenge, the thrill of discovery. Exactly what makes this adventure worth every step.
#PEDRA LONGA – Limestone tower
Pedra Longa, a striking 128-meter limestone pinnacle rising from the sea, is one of the most iconic landmarks on the Sardinian coast. Its name means “Long Stone” in Sardinian, and it has guided sailors for centuries, serving as a natural lighthouse along the Gulf of Orosei. According to local legend, it was once a giant who defied the gods and was turned to stone as punishment. The formation is part of the Baunei limestone massif, shaped over millions of years by wind and sea. Today, it marks the dramatic starting point of the Selvaggio Blu, where trekkers leave behind civilization and step into one of Italy’s wildest landscapes.
On the way up we are passing Olive Us Pigius is a small, abandoned shepherd settlement located along the ascent from Pedra Longa, an area historically used by the pastori (shepherds) of Baunei. The name itself is not widely documented, but like other similar sites in the Supramonte, it likely consisted of cuiles—traditional stone and juniper-wood huts where shepherds lived seasonally while tending their flocks.
This settlement was part of an ancient network of transhumance routes, where shepherds moved between coastal and mountain pastures, taking advantage of the different microclimates. The dry-stone walls and collapsed structures still visible today stand as a silent testament to a way of life that existed for centuries but has nearly vanished in modern times. Some of these huts may still be used occasionally by hunters or hikers seeking shelter.
Finally, we are arriving to our first campsite. It is not nice place at all with no views and green covered pool. But for sleeping it’s just fine.
Day 2: Monte Ginnirco - Portu Cuau
Difficulty:Medium, Ascend: 450 m, Descend: 1150 m, Duration: 7h, Distance: 8km
We wake up early, rubbing sleep from our eyes, only to find Mira’s sleeping bag absolutely soaked. Turns out, sleeping outside the tarp wasn’t the best idea. We hadn’t expected such high humidity, but hey—this is probably the only time in Sardinia when it rains consistently. Good for nature, not so much for Mira’s morale.
Today’s plan: a steep descent down to our seaside camp in Porto Cuau. Sounds relaxing, right? Except we’re each hauling two days’ worth of food and a whopping six liters of water—because, well, there’s no way to restock supplies in any reasonable manner along this stretch. So, instead of gliding effortlessly downhill, we’re basically human pack mules wobbling our way to the coast.
One thing about Selvaggio Blu—it’s got a twisted sense of humor. It gently breaks you in, each day preparing you for even rougher terrain ahead. Today? Manageable. The paths, while rocky and unforgiving, are at least somewhat recognizable. But let’s be real—this is the best it’s ever going to get. It only gets worse from here.
I still remember this section from my failed attempt eight years ago. When I told my friends back home that Selvaggio is brutal, I don’t think they fully believed me. Today is tough, sure, but not outright life-threatening. Mira, on the other hand, was expecting more of a wild adventure. Spoiler alert: he’s about to get his wish—big time.
#PORTU CUAU – hidden port
Portu Cuau, meaning „Hidden Port“ in Sardinian, is a small, secluded cove tucked beneath the towering limestone cliffs of Baunei’s coastline. It has long been a secret refuge, used historically by smugglers who took advantage of its isolation to bring goods ashore undetected. The cove’s inaccessibility by land—reachable only by foot or boat—adds to its mystique, making it feel like a lost world. The waters here are an intense shade of blue, contrasting beautifully with the rugged white rock and sparse Mediterranean vegetation. Today, it remains a peaceful, almost untouched spot, where trekkers can cool off after a demanding day’s hike, surrounded by sheer cliffs and the whispers of its hidden past.
The views are classic Selvaggio—sheer cliffs plunging into the sea on our right, jagged ravines daring us to find a way across. At first glance, Whoever mapped this route had a talent for finding just the right way—down one ridiculously steep slope, across the ravine, and then, of course, straight back up.
Our first small climbing section looms ahead, but we handle it without problems. No major issues. We reach Porto Pedrosu, the first beach, and waste no time jumping into the sea. It’s paradise—crystal-clear water… and not a soul in sight. Perfect for a refreshing dip, and—let’s just say—some photos that will never see the light of day.
But our actual campsite is still one bay over, in Porto Cuau, where we finally meet our only company on this entire trek—an Italian mountain guide with a single German client.
Then comes the inevitable. Just as we’re about to set up camp, it starts raining. Hard. This becomes a evening ritual—waiting for the rain to pass just enough so we can throw up the tarp, crawl under it, and call it a day. By 7:00 PM, we’re tucked in like a bunch of exhausted burritos, hoping for full muscle regeneration by morning.
Day 3: Portu Cuau - Arcu'e su Tasaru
Difficulty: Medium/Hard, Ascend: 900 m, Descend: 500 m, Duration: 7h, Distance: 10km
Equipment needed: optional climbing harness and seat. We didn’t have it, but I think I’ll pack it next time
Today’s route starts off gently, following the contour of the land without any major descents or obstacles. The path is relatively easy at first, allowing us to settle into the day’s rhythm. Before long, though, the terrain becomes rougher. Jagged rocks start to dominate the trail, pressing through the soles of our shoes with every step. Honza struggles the most—one of his shoes has already been held together with electrical tape since yesterday, and the sharp terrain is not making things any easier.
As we continue tracing the coastline, the trail occasionally leads us to breathtaking viewpoints. Each stop offers a glimpse of the vast sea and dramatic cliffs that will accompany us in the days ahead. The effort is always rewarded by the landscape unfolding before us.
Just before Punta Salinas, there is place called Cuile Runcu ‚e Su Pressu. It is a traditional Sardinian cuile (shepherd’s hut), used historically by local shepherds as a temporary shelter while tending their flocks in the rugged limestone terrain of Baunei. These huts were constructed to provide protection from the elements, including rain, wind, and sun, as well as a resting place during long days spent herding goats and sheep in the remote highlands. The typical construction of a cuile involves stacked stones for the walls and a roof made of juniper branches, often covered with layers of vegetation to improve insulation and water resistance. The simple yet effective design keeps the interior relatively dry and cool, making it a practical refuge for shepherds during bad weather or overnight stays.
From here it is not far from Punta Salinas. which is one of the most spectacular viewpoint of Aguglia, a striking needle-shaped rock formation rising from the sea. It’s a well-known landmark, with several challenging multi-pitch climbing routes reaching its summit.
The mood within the group remains high. It’s been a demanding day, but so far, nothing beyond what we expected.
#PUNTA SALINAS – Aguglia viewpoint
Punta Salinas is one of the most spectacular viewpoints on the Selvaggio Blu trek. Perched high above the Gulf of Orosei, it offers a breathtaking panorama of sheer limestone cliffs plunging into the deep blue sea. This exposed rocky outcrop is not just a visual highlight—it also holds historical significance. According to local stories, it was once a watchpoint for shepherds and smugglers, who used it to spot approaching boats. The dramatic drop from its edge emphasizes the isolation of the trail, making trekkers feel as if they are standing at the edge of the world. The combination of raw beauty and a sense of untouched wilderness makes Punta Salinas a truly unforgettable stop.
After descending into the valley leading to Cala Goloritzé, Honza and I take a break while Mira heads down to the beach. From here on, I’ll leave out the finer details—some things are best left to be discovered firsthand.
But one thing remains constant: the relentless climb. Up and up we go, pushing toward our campsite near Arcu ‚e su Tasaru. And, just like yesterday, the rain finds us right on schedule. We wait for half an hour, long enough to ensure we’re thoroughly cold, before finally giving in and setting up the tarp in the downpour. Some traditions, it seems, are unavoidable.
Day 4: Arcu'e su Tasaru - Ololbissi
Difficulty: Hard, Ascend: 700 m, Descend: 900 m, Duration: 7h, Distance: 7km
Equipment needed: climbing harness, cow’s tail, 60m dynamic rope, belay device
Next morning we need to dry just about everything, so we wait eagerly for the first rays of sun to help us out. The campsite, with our gear spread out in every direction, looks almost comical—like a scene from an improvised survival documentary. But the result is worth it: after breakfast, we’re ready to move on.
As you might have guessed from the gear list at the start of the day, the final stretch of the trek becomes more technical. The last two days demand confidence in rope work. There’s no more easing into it—this is where the real challenge begins.
Today feels like the most beautiful day, and I say that purely from the heart. We move forward slowly, not just because the terrain is tough, but because we’re savoring every moment. Each step brings a new surprise—a magnificent cave appears ahead, its mouth opening wide, stretching tens, maybe hundreds, of meters along the rocky cliffside. Inside one of them, we find a natural watering hole, the water flowing down from a stalactite into a small, clear pool. Without hesitation, we drink, grateful for it. With the sun beating down and less water left in our packs, this refreshing gift is exactly what we need. I’m not sure if the photos can capture the sheer beauty we’re witnessing, but in a way, we all agree—this experience is beyond words.
#GROTTA DEL FICO
One of the most incredible features of this stage is the Grotta del Fico, a spectacular cave hidden along the limestone cliffs. Once used by monk seals as a refuge, this cave is a maze of underground chambers filled with stunning stalactites and stalagmites. The entrance is perched high above the sea, accessible only by a narrow path and some scrambling, adding to its mystique. Inside, the play of light on the mineral formations creates an almost otherworldly atmosphere. The cave was also explored by the famous Sardinian speleologist Peppino Azzali, who helped uncover its secrets. Standing inside, you can feel the deep connection between the land and sea, a hidden world frozen in time.
I’ve come to realize that adventure begins where uncertainty lies ahead. I’m not sure I’ve read that anywhere, but it became clear to me on this trek. Today wasn’t easy—far from it. But every step, every glance, every moment of fear was worth it.
Exhausted, we finally set up the tarp, though it took us three tries. A massive boulder got in the way, but it wasn’t the boulder’s fault. It’s just that we’re made of grit.
Day 5: Ololbissi - Cala Sisine
Difficulty:Hard, Ascend: 700 m, Descend: 1000m, Duration: 7h, Distance: 8 km
Equipment needed: climbing harness, cow’s tail, 2 ropes (we had 60m and 50m), belay device. Knowledge how to tie two ropes safely together
The last day of the trek feels like a repeat of yesterday. Technically, it’s the same, just with a longer abseils. And if you’re unsure whether the rope reached the ground, it’s always better to tie one more. There is no rush.
The beauty of this trek lies in how it prepares us for what the next day holds. Of course, you don’t always get it right the first time. Take today, for instance—within the first hour, we’ve already veered off course three times, walking completely different routes than we planned.
But even today, new challenges await us. I won’t spoil them—I want each of you to experience them in your own way. The breathtaking views, the dangerously narrow walkways, the caves, and the rappelling—they all repeat, but watch out, some spots really need two ropes. And then there’s the feeling that, by tomorrow, all of this will just be a beautiful memory.
#CODULA DI SISINE – 2015 rockfall
The 2015 rockfall in Codula di Sisine was a significant event that reshaped the lower part of the canyon, making the descent to Cala Sisine more technical. A large section of the fragile limestone cliffs collapsed, sending tons of rock and debris into the dry riverbed. This wasn’t an isolated event—rockfalls are common in the Gulf of Orosei due to the region’s karst geology, where water infiltrates cracks, weakening the rock over time.
The 2015 collapse left behind massive boulders, some as large as cars, creating new obstacles that trekkers must now navigate. While the original shepherd paths have mostly disappeared under the debris, the new terrain adds an element of discovery and challenge. Some sections require careful scrambling, and after heavy rains, loose rocks can shift, making the descent unpredictable.
Despite the difficulty, the rockfall has also created a dramatic, almost surreal landscape, with jagged white limestone contrasting against the deep blue sky. It’s a stark reminder of the power of nature and the ever-changing character of the Selvaggio Blu.
We descend to Cala Sisine, and even though we all look a little worse for wear, the sense of accomplishment is undeniable. We made it!!!
We stretch out on the beach, listening the sound of waves. Deep down, I know this moment of peace will stay with me long after we leave. One chapter is closed. And I can’t wait to see what the next one.
